Western Australia travel notes, February 2008

Our great Australian sojourn of February 2008 ended with a terrific look at some of the wonders of Western Australia — from mining-boom Perth on to King George’s Sound and an overnight stay at that very southern WA point of Albany, over to the Valley of the Giants Treetop Walk at Walpole and then north through Nannup for a tea stop with kookaburras, a stop at the Cambray sheep/cheese farm and on to Dunsborough and Yallingup for an excellent stay of three days at the Empire Retreat. 

The Fremantle Market

Fremantle was the original settlement at the mouth of the Swan River, but the British colonists soon discovered that its sandy soil could not be farmed and moved up river to Perth, leaving Fremantle to be its port, a role it still plays for all of booming Western Australia. It is surrounded by immense docking, industrial and refining facilities. It has an outstanding Maritime Museum.

Marshall’s, Myalup, Western Australia

On February 22, 2008 Linda and I had lunch at Marshall’s beside the coastal highway about half way on our three hour drive between the Margaret River area and Fremantle. Western Australia is becoming fabulously wealthy due to exports of iron, coal, uranium, copper, wool and sheep. Many successful people in Perth have built weekend retreats to the south. Housing developments, wineries, upscale art galleries etc are proliferating. Marshall’s is strategically located to serve this prosperous and trendy crowd on their weekly drives.

Cullen Dining, Wilyabrup, Western Australia

One of the first vineyards and wineries in the Margaret River area was Cullen Wines. This family owned and operated enterprise has since expanded and achieved an excellent reputation. It is also the first winery in the area to be fully biodynamic and the first to be certified carbon neutral. Its planting and harvesting follow lunar cycles. Through a mutual friend we were able to have a special tour and winetasting on February 19, 2008.

The Food Farmacy, Dunsborough, Western Australia

On February 18, 2008, Linda and I dined at The Food Farmacy in a shopping center in Dunsborough. It was a short drive from the Empire Retreat in Yallingyup, where we were staying. The chef’s father was a pharmacist so he has adopted the theme.

Wild Duck, Albany, Western Australia

Albany has an interesting history, but is now a forgotten town on the southwestern edge of Australia. It was the first settlement in the region, an important port and whaling center. There are stunning views of King George Sound, which was the assembly point for the Anzac troopship convoys en route to Egypt (and eventually Gallipoli) in 1914. But, despite its timeworn face, it has an interesting restaurant, Wild Duck, whose talented chef, Welsh-born Andrew Holmes, came here from Star Anise in Perth as Albany is his wife’s home town. Tony, Linda and I dined there on February 17, 2008.

The Richardson Hotel, West Perth

Linda and I stayed at The Richardson Hotel from February 14 through 16, 2008. It is located in an upscale low-rise business and residential neighborhood just outside Perth’s main business and government center.

Star Anise, Perth

Many reviewers rate Star Anise as the best restaurant in Western Australia. So Tony, Linda and I went for dinner on February 16, 2008. It is in a converted house in the residential Perth suburb, Shenton Park. There are several small dining rooms and tables in the front patio. The interior décor is sort of Japanese modern. We were there on a Saturday evening when only the seven-course “Signature Menu” at A$110 is served. 

Mead’s Mosman Park, Western Australia

On February 16, 2008 Linda, Tony and I had lunch at Mead’s, a lovely restaurant on a pier extending into the Swan River. It is in Mosman Park, an upscale suburb between Perth and the ocean.

Matsuri, Perth

On February 15, 2008, Linda, Tony and I ate at Matsuri before an exotic performance of Midsummer Night’s Dream at His Majesty’s Theater nearby in downtown Perth.  This is a popular restaurant, not fancy and with attractive prices, but we found the quality to be excellent.

Hobart and Southeast Tasmania touring notes

A whale sighting was the headline event when we stayed at Somerset on Salamanca in Hobart from February 8 to 14, 2008. This “serviced residence” features one and two bedroom suites with small kitchens and laundry facilities. We found it to be very comfortable, practical and well located.

The weekly Saturday Salamanca Market nearby is the best outdoor crafts market we have seen and its crafts, vegetable, fruit and food components are reported on in separate postings. 

Lebrina, Hobart

The Gourmet Traveller, a useful Australian magazine website, rates Lebrina as the best restaurant in Tasmania. Sharon, Rob, Linda and I dined there on February 13, 2008. Lebrina is in an old house north of Hobart.

The Source, Berriedale, Tasmania

The Source is always mentioned in articles or guidebooks for tourists to Hobart because of its spectacular setting and the stories about its site, The Morilla Estate, on a point overlooking the Derwent River 12 km north of Hobart.

The Salamanca Market, Hobart 2

The fabulous Saturday Salamanca Market in Hobart has a wide variety of stands mixed in with those selling fresh local produce which I showed in the first post. There are also street musicians out to make a few dollars or to attract business to their friends’ or families’ stands. Enjoy the show as we did on February 9, 2008.

The Salamanca Market, Hobart 1

If you are planning a trip to Tasmania, be sure to include a Saturday morning in Hobart. The market, which takes over Salamanca Street, between the old sandstone warehouses and the port, is fabulous. There are over 200 stalls selling Tasmanian products of all types. Food is of primary importance, of course. That is what I’ll show in this post. Another will show the wide variety of other offerings.

Marque IV, Hobart

The Gourmet Traveller, a useful Australian magazine website, rates Marque IV as the second best restaurant in Tasmania. So Linda and I went there for dinner on February 10, 2008. A former warehouse on a pier jutting out from downtown Hobart has been converted into loft hotel rooms on the upper level. On the lower level are the hotel lobby, a bar and Marque IV. The décor is sleek modern with one wall opening onto the kitchen.

Alexander’s, Hobart

On February 8, 2008, Rob, Linda and I dined at Alexander’s, the restaurant of the Lenna Hotel, built in 1874 on Battery Point in Hobart. The décor is Victorian, particularly the elegant lobby of the hotel. The staff was friendly and the service excellent.

Quay Grand Suites, Sydney

Linda and I stayed in room 803 at the Quay Grand Suites at the Circular Quay in Sydney from February 4 to 8, 2008. This friendly and superbly located modern hotel has only two and three room suites including kitchens with laundry facilities. Each suite has a balcony with a table and chairs. We had asked for a harbor view, but the views on the other side over the Botanical Garden must be nice, too.

The Fox Farmer’s Market, Sydney

The former Royal Agricultural Society’s Sydney Showgrounds have been developed into the Fox Movie Studios by Rupert Murdoch. One segment of it is a retail and entertainment area where a farmer’s market is held each Wednesday and Saturday. Sue took Linda and me there on February 6, 2008. Afterwards we took our purchases back to Sue’s house and made lunch.

Tetsuya’s, Sydney

Restaurant Magazine in London rates Tetsuya’s as the fifth best restaurant in the world, ahead of Michel Bras, the Louis XV and Per Se. Even though we know that such rankings are silly exercises, the evening promised to be memorable.  Sue, Linda and I went for dinner on February 7, 2008.